After the saga of my journey I arrived in Kolkata...
So far (1 1/2 days) I really love the place. It has the bustle of India, including amazing markets but still feels chilled out.
After catching up on my sleep on arrival I went out and about to explore the Kolkata nightlife. It seams to consist of hotel bars, decent but expensive and local bars, full of blokes listening to all girl groups singing live Bengali music! Yes it is as seedy as it sounds....
1st full day I visited the Indian Museum, a crumbling museum with natural history, geology and archaeological exhibits. I was a bit disturbed in the geological gallery to discover a cabinet displaying asbestos... It's fine in it's raw form I though. Next cabinet, asbestos in its processed dust form.... Nice
Next up was the Victoria Memorial a stunning colonial building, the last built in the old Calcutta before the Raj capital moved to New Delhi. It also contained a fascinating museum detailing Calcutta/Kolkata's development over the last 300 years. It also had a really interesting gallery of late 18th early 19th century oil paintings, painted by British artist's who arrived in India with the East India Company. It was the most interesting snapshot of pre colonial India I've seen so far.
Kolkata is a strange mixture of the glory of colonial India and the squaller of modern India. For me though it demonstrated the damage the empire building has caused and continues to cause in this part of the world. Yes I mean you, the USA!!
2nd full day, I've had a wander around the former colonial centre of Kolkata, including St Johns Church built in the 18th century
I've also discovered there is a race meeting at the Royal Calcutta Turf Club on new years day. Hopefully it will make up for missing Cheltenham next year...
Thursday 30 December 2010
Wednesday 29 December 2010
Dust and Fog
So having got Christmas out of the way it was time to hit the trains again.
God knows what made me think that trains in India would be as efficient as China.... My train to Agra was 4 hours late arriving at New Delhi station and then was further delayed by an hour and a half between Delhi and Agra!!! That meant instead of arriving at 18.30 I arrived at 23.30. Try getting a nice hotel at that time! That's right, I didn't.....
But that's all forgotten now. Today I visited the Taj Mahal, although undoubtedly a beautiful building I found it lacked historical context. It seemed to me that most people were just be there for the photo, which I found a bit of a shame.
Anyway to go with the trend here are a couple of pictures...
After the obligatory visit to Agra Fort, which I found very interesting and in much better context, I decided to check on my train booked for that evening....
You probably guessed it, cancelled!!
So after much research in an Internet cafe (where I discovered I'd lost my bank card, another saga) I found out my best option was a train back to Delhi and flight to Calcutta. An agency matched my price including overnight stop in Delhi, so far so good....
Feeling happy again, I Went to watch the sun set over the Taj and then back to agency only to find.... Train delayed by 6 hours!! With risk of flight being missed.
At this point I have to admit I lost my rag! The agency boss after I long row agreed to get me to Delhi airport by car.
So as I write I'm sat in the car on route with fog all around us.... I think I offended the driver when I put on the seatbelt but hey!
...
Just to finish off this post, I made it safely to New Delhi. Spent the whole night in the Airport. And caught my flight to Kolkata with no further problems. (Other than sleep deprivation!)
I'll update you on my Kolkata adventures anon
God knows what made me think that trains in India would be as efficient as China.... My train to Agra was 4 hours late arriving at New Delhi station and then was further delayed by an hour and a half between Delhi and Agra!!! That meant instead of arriving at 18.30 I arrived at 23.30. Try getting a nice hotel at that time! That's right, I didn't.....
But that's all forgotten now. Today I visited the Taj Mahal, although undoubtedly a beautiful building I found it lacked historical context. It seemed to me that most people were just be there for the photo, which I found a bit of a shame.
Anyway to go with the trend here are a couple of pictures...
After the obligatory visit to Agra Fort, which I found very interesting and in much better context, I decided to check on my train booked for that evening....
You probably guessed it, cancelled!!
So after much research in an Internet cafe (where I discovered I'd lost my bank card, another saga) I found out my best option was a train back to Delhi and flight to Calcutta. An agency matched my price including overnight stop in Delhi, so far so good....
Feeling happy again, I Went to watch the sun set over the Taj and then back to agency only to find.... Train delayed by 6 hours!! With risk of flight being missed.
At this point I have to admit I lost my rag! The agency boss after I long row agreed to get me to Delhi airport by car.
So as I write I'm sat in the car on route with fog all around us.... I think I offended the driver when I put on the seatbelt but hey!
...
Just to finish off this post, I made it safely to New Delhi. Spent the whole night in the Airport. And caught my flight to Kolkata with no further problems. (Other than sleep deprivation!)
I'll update you on my Kolkata adventures anon
Saturday 25 December 2010
Friday 24 December 2010
Hurrah
I finally feel better!!!!
To celebrate I went to the cinema last night to watch Tron Legacy. Which I surprised myself by really enjoying (particularly the Daft Punk score)
Today I visited the Indian Parliament district. The buildings themselves were spectacular. I also took in the parliamentary museum and the Nehru museum, as I'm interested in the independence movement.
Keep forgetting it's Christmas Eve so not sure on my plans for tonight yet...
To celebrate I went to the cinema last night to watch Tron Legacy. Which I surprised myself by really enjoying (particularly the Daft Punk score)
Today I visited the Indian Parliament district. The buildings themselves were spectacular. I also took in the parliamentary museum and the Nehru museum, as I'm interested in the independence movement.
Keep forgetting it's Christmas Eve so not sure on my plans for tonight yet...
Wednesday 22 December 2010
Anish Kapoor
Even though I am still ill and as such have been stuck in Delhi, I have been trying to do some stuff the last couple of days.
Yesterday I jumped on the metro and went to have a look at the Commonwealth Games stadium (which was surrounded by a ten foot wall and so impossible to see anything) and then onto the Lotus Temple. A fascinating temple given over to use by all faiths for the own prayer or meditation.
Today after a nice stroll through New Delhi, I visited the National Museum of Modern Art to view the first Indian exhibition of Anish Kapoor's work.
It was superb and also free, which was a pleasant surprise when compared to how much you have to pay to see one of his exhibitions back in the UK.
Here's a quick pic I managed to sneak in....
Yesterday I jumped on the metro and went to have a look at the Commonwealth Games stadium (which was surrounded by a ten foot wall and so impossible to see anything) and then onto the Lotus Temple. A fascinating temple given over to use by all faiths for the own prayer or meditation.
Today after a nice stroll through New Delhi, I visited the National Museum of Modern Art to view the first Indian exhibition of Anish Kapoor's work.
It was superb and also free, which was a pleasant surprise when compared to how much you have to pay to see one of his exhibitions back in the UK.
Here's a quick pic I managed to sneak in....
Monday 20 December 2010
Sunday 19 December 2010
India
After a fairly simple flight from Kathmandu to Delhi and a (surprisingly easy) taxi ride to my hotel I arrived in Delhi. I decided to stay in the cheap pahaganj area between New and Old Delhi. I should have known thing we're never going to turn out easy though...
On arrival I went for a meal at a restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet and then a few beers, so far so good. That night it all went wrong as I woke up feeling as sick as a dog and had to spend the whole of Saturday in bed!! Today (after a trip to buy some antibiotics) I have been at least feeling like I could leave the hotel.
After all of these troubles Ive had a pretty sucessful day. I booked the train tickets for the next part of my trip, 3 days in Jodhpur returning to Delhi for Christmas. I managed to get my iPhone fixed and then visited the National Museum.
Tonight I'm going to take it easy so I can enjoy my day in Delhi tomorrow before catching the train in the evening
On arrival I went for a meal at a restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet and then a few beers, so far so good. That night it all went wrong as I woke up feeling as sick as a dog and had to spend the whole of Saturday in bed!! Today (after a trip to buy some antibiotics) I have been at least feeling like I could leave the hotel.
After all of these troubles Ive had a pretty sucessful day. I booked the train tickets for the next part of my trip, 3 days in Jodhpur returning to Delhi for Christmas. I managed to get my iPhone fixed and then visited the National Museum.
Tonight I'm going to take it easy so I can enjoy my day in Delhi tomorrow before catching the train in the evening
Wednesday 15 December 2010
The last few days
The last week has been a pretty busy one really
On Saturday and Sunday I went off white water rafting which was a great laugh. Certainly something I will look to do again and on a bright note I even managed to get through the two days without falling out of the raft!!
Since then I've been back in Kathmandu, although I took the decision to hire a mountain bike for a few days to get out and explore the suburbs, which has certainly been interesting.
I hope everybody is enjoying the festive season!! I'm certainly feeling a lack of turkey roasts :o(
On Saturday and Sunday I went off white water rafting which was a great laugh. Certainly something I will look to do again and on a bright note I even managed to get through the two days without falling out of the raft!!
Since then I've been back in Kathmandu, although I took the decision to hire a mountain bike for a few days to get out and explore the suburbs, which has certainly been interesting.
I hope everybody is enjoying the festive season!! I'm certainly feeling a lack of turkey roasts :o(
Wednesday 8 December 2010
Kathmandu 2
The last couple of day have been pretty relaxing chilling out in Kathmandu.
Yesterday I went and sat in a Edwardian style English walled garden sat just of the crazy main road. I was amazing how peaceful it was.
Next door was a colonial style building housing the Kathmandu Library. I was one of the strangest libraries I've ever seen. Complete with stuffed animals, suits of armour and ancient globes! The books were all dated from pre 1950 and included mostly British military and political history! I did find a dictionary of sport from 1930 that had an entry for Spurs though so I was happy...
I've booked a two day rafting trip in a couple of days so I'm going to stay in Kathmandu until then, before flying onto Delhi for Christmas...
Yesterday I went and sat in a Edwardian style English walled garden sat just of the crazy main road. I was amazing how peaceful it was.
Next door was a colonial style building housing the Kathmandu Library. I was one of the strangest libraries I've ever seen. Complete with stuffed animals, suits of armour and ancient globes! The books were all dated from pre 1950 and included mostly British military and political history! I did find a dictionary of sport from 1930 that had an entry for Spurs though so I was happy...
I've booked a two day rafting trip in a couple of days so I'm going to stay in Kathmandu until then, before flying onto Delhi for Christmas...
Tuesday 7 December 2010
Pictures
The first batch of pictures are now up. The address is: http://picasaweb.google.com/tumbridge
Monday 6 December 2010
Kathmandu
31 today and I don't feel a day over 30!!
I treated myself yesterday by buying a guitar (30 quid) and attending a football match in the British Gurkha Cup at the Nepal national stadium (90p for two matches) today I will be mostly chilling out!
Anyway back to the travels:
Kathmandu is a crazy busy city, its certainly a different experience compared with Tibet! The main tourist of town (Thamel) is full of shops, bars and restaurants aiming at westerners. But if you walk 10 minutes away from this area you don't see a western face. Very strange how people visit a place then never try to actually see it!
Later today I'm going to head own to the old part of Kathmandu to see the mixture of original Buddhist and Hindu temples.
Further plans for Nepal include 3 days rafting and a short trek.... If I can tare myself away from Kathmandu!!
I treated myself yesterday by buying a guitar (30 quid) and attending a football match in the British Gurkha Cup at the Nepal national stadium (90p for two matches) today I will be mostly chilling out!
Anyway back to the travels:
Kathmandu is a crazy busy city, its certainly a different experience compared with Tibet! The main tourist of town (Thamel) is full of shops, bars and restaurants aiming at westerners. But if you walk 10 minutes away from this area you don't see a western face. Very strange how people visit a place then never try to actually see it!
Later today I'm going to head own to the old part of Kathmandu to see the mixture of original Buddhist and Hindu temples.
Further plans for Nepal include 3 days rafting and a short trek.... If I can tare myself away from Kathmandu!!
Saturday 4 December 2010
Xining and Tibet
This will be a long post as I am going to continue to write it until my access to my blog is back.
So since watching the glorious victory by the mighty Spurs in Xi'an, I've moved onto Xining a city on the eastern edge of the Tibetan plateau.
Xining is pretty typical of a Chinese town although the population is a mixture of Muslim, Han Chinese and Tibetans.
My main reason for visiting Xining was to arrange a Tibetan tour. Luckily I managed to sort that on my first day, as a couple I met were planing on an identical tour to mine so I'm going to tag along (making it cheaper for everyone).
With my main objective accomplished I've had a bit of time to explore Xining. Although it doesn't have a huge amount of sights I've enjoyed the place. The Tibetan and food markets have made the stay worthwhile on there own.
....
There are two Buddhist monastery's near Xining. We were advised by locals to visit the less well known one, which is still a working monastery rather than a museum. It was well worth the trip with the various temples set into the mountains. The first of what I'm sure will be many monasteries I'll visit in the next few days...
The visit to the birthplace of the Dalai Lama was a bit of a disappointment, as when we arrived were weren't allowed in. That said the journey through the mountains was spectacular. He was certainly born in a pretty place!
....
Now onto Tibet. The train is one of the nicest I've been on so far on the trip. Lucky really as it's my home for the next 30 hours!!
(added at 03.18am)
I am now very high up:
Its has given me a headache so when I should be asleep I'm lying awake listening to the Smiths.
The train peaks at an altitude of 5072m apparently! Something to look forward to
....
A quick response to mostly self imposed criticism of my decision to go to Tibet.
Firstly, the Dalai Lama himself has encouraged people to visit Tibet, as he believes it is the best way to ensure Tibet's unique culture is preserved as the Han continue to flock in.
Secondly, like most responsible travellers, I have gone out of my way to ensure that the tour company, tour guides, and all restaurants I have used in Tibet are owned and run by actual Tibetans so I can be sure my money is getting to those that need it most!
Ok rant over...
That said I have found Lhasa a strange place so far. It is an amazing mix of medieval and modern. It is certainly very oppressive with armed Chinese solders on every street corner! Political discussion is a big no no.
....
Today on the first proper day of our trip we visited the Jokhang Temple and Sera Monastery. Both were amazing primarily because they are still working temples in-spite of the controlling Chinese. Certainly a very moving and spiritual experience.
....
Tonight I went into a bar in Tibet and played my entire acoustic guitar set (4 songs) to a bunch of locals! What a buzz!!!
....
Today was a trip to the Potela palace, although spectacular it felt dead with the Chinese guards everywhere.
That said we were to see first hand the repression of the Tibetan people when we attended a big religious festival in the main square outside the Jokhang Temple. I'm not joking when I say than armed police and solders outnumbered the pilgrims by 10 to 1 and there were a lot of pilgrims! It was still well worth attending though to see religion in action.
....
Today was the first day in our Land Cruiser on route to Nepal. We stopped today at several magnificent scenic spots.
The afternoon was spent at a famous buddhist monastery. It was probably the mist interesting monastery so far as it was full of monks and pilgrims preying as part of the festival I mentioned previously.
Tonight the monks perform a special ceremony.
....
Ok so after a day of two more (admittedly interesting) monasteries we got our first sighting of Mount Everest, just as the sun was setting! An unforgettable experience.
We then spent the night in a great Tibetan hotel. Although it had no heating and on a couple of hours of electricity, the cafe area was heated by a traditional yak dung stove which was more than cosy. We then whiled away the evening playing cards.
....
We've made a brief stop in Old Tingri at the foot of the Himalayas.
....
Ok last few days in Tibet were a bit special as the scenery turned from dusty desert to lush green valleys. I'll update the remainder later!!
After 11 days JT returns!!
So since watching the glorious victory by the mighty Spurs in Xi'an, I've moved onto Xining a city on the eastern edge of the Tibetan plateau.
Xining is pretty typical of a Chinese town although the population is a mixture of Muslim, Han Chinese and Tibetans.
My main reason for visiting Xining was to arrange a Tibetan tour. Luckily I managed to sort that on my first day, as a couple I met were planing on an identical tour to mine so I'm going to tag along (making it cheaper for everyone).
With my main objective accomplished I've had a bit of time to explore Xining. Although it doesn't have a huge amount of sights I've enjoyed the place. The Tibetan and food markets have made the stay worthwhile on there own.
....
There are two Buddhist monastery's near Xining. We were advised by locals to visit the less well known one, which is still a working monastery rather than a museum. It was well worth the trip with the various temples set into the mountains. The first of what I'm sure will be many monasteries I'll visit in the next few days...
The visit to the birthplace of the Dalai Lama was a bit of a disappointment, as when we arrived were weren't allowed in. That said the journey through the mountains was spectacular. He was certainly born in a pretty place!
....
Now onto Tibet. The train is one of the nicest I've been on so far on the trip. Lucky really as it's my home for the next 30 hours!!
(added at 03.18am)
I am now very high up:
Its has given me a headache so when I should be asleep I'm lying awake listening to the Smiths.
The train peaks at an altitude of 5072m apparently! Something to look forward to
....
A quick response to mostly self imposed criticism of my decision to go to Tibet.
Firstly, the Dalai Lama himself has encouraged people to visit Tibet, as he believes it is the best way to ensure Tibet's unique culture is preserved as the Han continue to flock in.
Secondly, like most responsible travellers, I have gone out of my way to ensure that the tour company, tour guides, and all restaurants I have used in Tibet are owned and run by actual Tibetans so I can be sure my money is getting to those that need it most!
Ok rant over...
That said I have found Lhasa a strange place so far. It is an amazing mix of medieval and modern. It is certainly very oppressive with armed Chinese solders on every street corner! Political discussion is a big no no.
....
Today on the first proper day of our trip we visited the Jokhang Temple and Sera Monastery. Both were amazing primarily because they are still working temples in-spite of the controlling Chinese. Certainly a very moving and spiritual experience.
....
Tonight I went into a bar in Tibet and played my entire acoustic guitar set (4 songs) to a bunch of locals! What a buzz!!!
....
Today was a trip to the Potela palace, although spectacular it felt dead with the Chinese guards everywhere.
That said we were to see first hand the repression of the Tibetan people when we attended a big religious festival in the main square outside the Jokhang Temple. I'm not joking when I say than armed police and solders outnumbered the pilgrims by 10 to 1 and there were a lot of pilgrims! It was still well worth attending though to see religion in action.
....
Today was the first day in our Land Cruiser on route to Nepal. We stopped today at several magnificent scenic spots.
The afternoon was spent at a famous buddhist monastery. It was probably the mist interesting monastery so far as it was full of monks and pilgrims preying as part of the festival I mentioned previously.
Tonight the monks perform a special ceremony.
....
Ok so after a day of two more (admittedly interesting) monasteries we got our first sighting of Mount Everest, just as the sun was setting! An unforgettable experience.
We then spent the night in a great Tibetan hotel. Although it had no heating and on a couple of hours of electricity, the cafe area was heated by a traditional yak dung stove which was more than cosy. We then whiled away the evening playing cards.
....
We've made a brief stop in Old Tingri at the foot of the Himalayas.
....
Ok last few days in Tibet were a bit special as the scenery turned from dusty desert to lush green valleys. I'll update the remainder later!!
After 11 days JT returns!!
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